Being fair-skinned in Pune...
Yesterday, I took my co-worker's wife, who is visiting Pune with him, Saree shopping. She had been to Shopper's stop and similar places and had not really been able to find a saree that she liked. Last time we went together for dinner, I had suggested that they should go shopping with me. Helps to have a local with you..
Paul called me and asked me if I had time. So I took Carrie to Lakshmi Road to buy a saree. I figured that no American would venture into that part of the city by themselves. Most of the times, they went to MG road (closer to the Osho Ashraam). We tried to get a Rickshaw outside the hotel and the guy looks at Carrie and goes 60 rs. I was like, WHAT???. I told him (in marathi, of course), that I would pay by the meter. He said no. I was like whatever and we walked away. About 5 feet away, we got another rickshaw and who agreed to charge by the meter.
It took us 21 rs to get to Lakshmi road. The kids who beg at the signals, would come running and want to know where she was from, whether there was something in her mouth (Her tongue is pierced!!!). Gori Gori..Angrez, they would yell. Carrie had learnt the art of ignoring them and not asking me questions on poverty in India. She had been in India for 2 weeks now. Here I should mention that she has grown up in Nebraska in a city with 68 people. :) And has never been to NY/Boston.
We went to Shagun, one of the older stores that I am familiar with. I, myself, am not too fond of sarees. More of a jean person. The guys at Shagun were quite excited to have a "gori" buy sarees at their store. Carrie was even more excited to have several sarees draped around her. She was very impressed with the Banarasi Shalu's that they showed her initially thinking she wanted to buy one of those. Finally armed with a beautiful green and gray saree, we walked around buy a matching blouse and "petticoat". People did stare at her, but not as much as a pair of Americans!! :) Their eyes almost lit after seeing her walk past them. "Good Evening" they wished each other..and I almost felt like I was back in Fort Collins, CO :), forgetting the dug-up roads, poverty and paan stains for a second. The rickshaw back was easy as well.
Later, I taught her to drape the saree. For once, I felt like I knew more about sarees than the person I was with :)...After I left the hotel and merged into the traffic, I was almost grateful to not be stared at....
Chana Chaat - spicy, tangy protein-rich salad
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